Winter–the cruellest of seasons for those of us who thrive in summer’s warm embrace. I’ve always been a summer person—why else would my childhood hideout have been under the terrace awning, playing teacher to a class of imaginary pupils? Little did I know then that some of those playful “lessons” would eventually spill over into real life. Who says childhood games don’t prepare you for reality?
However, winter has its perks, if you look past the cold! The sight of fresh, green leafy vegetables is like a guilt-free invitation to eat as much as you like. But what really steals the show is the scent of gajar, gobhi, and shalgam ka achar, with a punch of crushed ginger and garlic. This sweet-tangy pickle, served with piping hot paranthas, is the kind of winter indulgence that makes you forget about your snooze button. On foggy mornings, it’s my only motivation to shake off my somnophilia and make my taste buds salivate!
Pickling, a technique of preserving food in brine or vinegar, has been used by humans for thousands of years, ensuring food lasts for the proverbial “rainy day” or, perhaps in this particular case, a “foggy winter morning.” Ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, Chinese, Romans, and many Indigenous communities, employed a range of methods to preserve fruits, vegetables, and meat. These techniques included drying in the sun, smoking, and utilizing natural preservatives like honey, salt, and fermentation.
While it’s challenging to pinpoint a specific individual or civilization that originated pickling, its roots are widespread across various cultures. The Egyptians, for example, used vinegar and brine to preserve food in their warm climate, while the Chinese integrated fermentation and pickling into their culinary practices as early as 2000 BCE. The Romans popularized the technique across Europe, using vinegar and brine to pickle a variety of foods. Pickling in India has a long tradition, with a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, and even meats being preserved in spices, salt, and oil. Every part of India prides itself on unique regional varieties of achar.
Pickling was not only a means of survival during famines, wars and long journeys across land and water but also a way to enhance flavour and introduce new textures into daily meals. Its enduring appeal is evident in the variety of pickled foods enjoyed globally today.
Thanks to the global takeover of K-dramas and the growing love for Korean cuisine, Kimchi has become the world’s favourite fermented sensation. The preparation of Kimchi is as spectacular as the ‘oppas’ of every K-drama available on Netflix. You take some humble veggies like cabbage, radish, or cucumber, smother them in a fiery, spicy paste (think garlic, chilli, and soy sauce), and let them sit back and relax while they ferment into a tangy, spicy masterpiece. It’s like the veggies are soaking in a spa treatment, transforming into something far more flavourful than their original selves—ready to spice up any meal with a zesty kick! Kimchi’s got it all—fermented, fabulous, and full of flair!
As the humble aam ka achar fights for relevance in a world swooning over Kimchi, my heart unapologetically flutters for the seasonal superstar: gajar, gobhi, shalgam ka achar. A fleeting affair, no doubt, but one that never fails to seduce my taste buds with its tangy, zesty charm. It’s the pickle equivalent of a winter romance—fiery, short-lived, and utterly unforgettable. With every spicy bite, it fuels me to battle frosty mornings with an unmatched warmth.
Move over, ‘global trends’, this desi delight is my spicy muse for cruising through winter’s icy grip!
Dr. Sonika Sethi