Varanasi (Banaras), ‘Mahadev ki Nagri’, is an ancient city founded by Lord Shiva, where God Bhairav was appointed as ‘Kotwal’, the protector of the city. A sacred pilgrimage of the Hindu religion, ‘Kashi’ is the entire universe, where almost all the Gods reside in one form or the other. It is a place of ‘moksha’/ salvation, the liberation from the cycle of birth-death.
Holiday clubbed with a leave and weekend, and the Lord ordained our visit. We were on the road in the wee hours of the morning. From NH 44, we moved on to the Eastern Peripheral Expressway, to the Agra-Lucknow-Yamuna Expressway and an exit on the Purvanchal Expressway. It took us almost 15 hours to cover a distance of 1000 kilometres. The onset of mellow Autumn, the lush green land courtesy of abundant rainfall, and retreating clouds made it a comfortable trip.
Tired after an arduous day in the car, we strolled to stretch our aching limbs and explore the local market for dinner. An e-rickshaw stopped to enquire if we wanted a ride to the temple, and it turned into an impromptu visit. The corridor was full of pilgrims, and out of nowhere, a genial soul appeared and offered his services as a guide. A brisk walk through the narrow bylanes, and we entered the holy shrine.
Kashi Vishwanath, also known as the Golden Temple, is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas dedicated to God Shiva. Kashi is divine. The premises, the façade, the precincts–the entire place has a cosmic aura and exudes eternal peace. ‘Divya’! ‘Aalokik’! Our guide took us around, made us offer obeisance and chant prayer/ holy verses. With folded hands, we followed him as if in a trance. He made us sit down, spend a few minutes in prayer as it was Papakunsha Ekadeshi. Within seconds, he disappeared. Appeared suddenly, vanished in the maze. Was he an angel? A surreal experience.
An aesthetically decorated temple and a serpentine queue led us to the Maa Durga Mandir/ Kushmanda Devi. Surrounded by Gauri Kund, the temple honours the form of Goddess Durga. Moreover, so many pandals had been put up for Navratri/ Durga Puja. The atmosphere was surcharged with gaiety, festivity and fervour. We visited the Sankat Mochan Mandir. Tulsidas wrote a part of Ramcharitmanas under the huge peepal tree. He was relieved of excruciating pain during his last days and composed the ‘Hanuman Bahuk’ hymn.
The next morning, we visited Dhamek Stupa, Sarnath, a Buddhist shrine and a UNESCO World Heritage site. After attaining enlightenment, Lord Buddha preached his first sermon here to his five disciples. A peaceful, quaint place at the confluence of Ganga and Varuna, it is a symbol of history, spirituality and salvation.
The evening was spent on the boat ride across the 84 Ghats. As the boat heaved on the swelling Ganga, the boatman pointed to the various Ghats and narrated their cultural identity, religious and mythological significance. The prominent being the Assi Ghat, the spiritual hub for holy dips; the Manikarnika Ghat, where pyres burn 24 X 7, and finally moored at the Dashashwmedh Ghat for the Ganga Aarti. As the sun sets, the Ghats reverberate with chanting, conch shells, cymbals, and drums. The massive convergence of faith is a mesmerising experience. It is a sight to behold as devotees float diyas.
Rain played spoilsport in the evening. The Ravana effigy was covered in wraps, and devotees huddled in corridors, an unusual Dusshera imprinted forever.
Kashi has plenty to tingle your taste buds. Finger-licking street food: chaat, paan, kulhad chai and whatnot. A few Banarsi sarees are a mandatory souvenir.
On our way back, we also visited the Vishwanath Temple within the Banaras Hindu University campus, established by the BHU Founder Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya. The vast temple offers serenity and exudes peace.
Suruchi Kalra Choudhary
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