Heritage walks help us appreciate the history, heritage, culture, and traditional practices of people of a bygone era or a few centuries ago. Not limiting one to gather information, such ‘walks’, importantly, heritage tours of temples, entrust devotees with the responsibility and commitment to protect such places of heritage for posterity.
While many magnificent temples were built and patronized by kings of yore, several temples were established when devotees donated land to construct places of worship. One such temple–Sri Kachaaleswarar Temple, Chennai, was built with the generous contribution from Dubash Kalavai Chetty. Lord Kachaaleswarar and Goddess Soundarambikai are the primary deities here.
‘Although Madras, founded by the East Indian Company when a piece of land was purchased from the then Nayak ruler, is only 386 years old, it has a history dating back to older time periods right from the Palaeolithic Age!’ (Relics were discovered at Pallavaram.)
From the fishing villages, Madras, aka Chennai, has evolved into a bustling city that promotes education, arts, culture, heritage, music, literature, and more. Historical references cite references to the Cholas, Pandyas, and the British Colonial period.
Tortoise–‘a symbol of endurance and support’ is depicted in the temple’s carvings and sculptures. Often, they are at the foot of the dvajasthambham–the sacred structure that signifies the presence of the deity. The tortoise is believed to symbolise the ‘connection between the divine and the earthly realm,’ also to ‘reinforce the spiritual foundation and stability of the temple.’
Stucco Image of Lord Shiva and other gods and goddesses, as well as Ravana, holding Mt. Kailas (PC: N. Ravi)
On the right side of the outer wall that leads into the sanctum, there is a stucco image of Lord Shiva, with innumerable other gods and goddesses, while Ravana holds Kailasa over his ten heads. This artistic structure enhances the aesthetic appeal of the place.
Yet another renowned temple in George Town, Chennai, is the Goddess Kalikambal of Sri Kalikambal Temple, Goddess Kamakshi (Kalikambal) in a seated pose is said to be the ‘kshipra prasadhini’ (granter of boons). Legends reveal that great saints such as Vyasa, Agastya, and Aangeerasa, and several others, had visited this holy place. The Maratha warrior-king Shivaji (after escaping from Aurangzeb’s prison, and before he became the founder of the Maratha Empire) was said to have worshipped Kalikambal in 1677 (Wiki). Mahakavi Subramanya Bharati, while working in the Swadesamitran office at Armenian Street, visited the Sri Kalikambal Kamateswar temple regularly. A participant opined Bharati’s ishta devata was Kali (‘Yathumaai Nindraal Kali…’ are the immortal lines of Bharati).
Other shrines in the temple include the Siddi-Buddhi Vinayakar, Agora Veerabadhra, Mahakali, Vadakathirkama Murugan, Virat Vishwa Parabrahma, Mani Vel, Gayathri, Durga, Dakshinamurthy and Pratyangira Devi. Also known as Bhadrakali, Narasimhi and Nikumbala, Pratyangira is said to be the female energy of Lord Narasimha. In contrast to Shanta-Swaroopini, Kalikambal is Pratyangira Devi, with a terrifying form, and is said to punish anyone indulging in adharma.
The place has seen several demographic changes over time. Many of these places of worship, which were of cultural and historical significance in the past, have been closed due to diminished patronage; several others are on the verge of closure due to declining foot traffic and apathy among those in power.
This was the key takeaway after a thoroughly immersive experience at these iconic landmarks of Parry’s Corner, aka George Town, with the postal code 600001.
Hema Ravi
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