Mata Vaishno Devi is one of the holiest Hindu shrines. It is believed that devotees undertake pilgrimage only when they are ‘called’ by the Goddess, and the deity fulfils whatever her devotees wish. Her divine blessings showered on us, and our tour got finalized within minutes.
The holy shrine can be reached via train to Katra, by air to Jammu, or by road. We planned to travel by our car and made reservations online. Early morning, we set out on the journey on the NH 44. The long journey was interspersed with food breaks, the best one being the sumptuous mind mind-blowing daal pakode/ bhalle served with grated radish and coriander chutney in Lakhanpur.
We checked into our guest house, rested for a while and were all set for the 14 km yatra to the Bhawan. One can hire a pony or a palki too. The old trek from the base in Katra commences from Banganga and moves up. Recently, an alternate route, the Tarakote Marg has been carved on the opposite hill. After registration, we donned our I-cards and enthusiastically took the new path. The Shrine Board has covered the stone path with tin sheds, the holy chants can be heard throughout, and the aesthetic landscaping includes benches, civic amenities, a medical facility and food joints. Devotees chant and greet each other with ‘Jai Mata Di’. The old path and the new converge at ‘Ardh Kuwari’.
According to the folklore, Mata Vaishno Devi was an incarnation of Goddess Parvati, Goddess Lakshmi and Goddess Saraswati. She was chased by the demon Bhairon as she meditated on the Trikuta hills. She meditated underground for nine months i.e. Garbhjoon at Ardh Kuwari. Later, she slayed the demon and merged with the cave. The pilgrimage has four steps: obligations at Ban Ganga, obeisance at Ardh Kuwari, the Bhawan and finally at the Bhairon temple.
We reached Ardh Kuwari post midnight, and a sea of humanity lay asleep. The entire temple, the courtyard and the passage were full of people. Not an inch of space was vacant. After a short break, we continued. The trek is hard. One has to stop after a couple of steps to catch their breath. While my daughter and I kept walking slowly, my husband and sons walked briskly for some time and sat down for a while. E-vehicles also ply from Ardh Kuwari to the Bhawan. The Bhawan beckons from far away, and if you enquire, the standard reply is ‘just round the corner’.
A sea of faith and humanity converges at the Bhawan. Amid tight security, a serpentine queue leads up the stairs. All offerings are to be deposited at the door, and cash is put in the box. The ‘pindi’ darshan is soul-satisfying. While a few close their eyes and bow their heads, a few like me view with the heart’s delight. The memory is etched forever. At the exit, Prasad is offered by the priests.
We took the cable car to the Bhairon temple. Tired, exhausted, our aching limbs baulked at the prospect of the return journey. We cajoled, coaxed, and hubby dear relented. While the uphill trek took us hours, the return chopper ride took just three minutes. One feels purged after the cathartic journey.
Besides religious sanctity, the pilgrimage is so humbling, as people from different walks line up as devotees. The false veil of social strata falls down as you merge with the masses.
Thank you, benign Goddess, for your blessings.
Suruchi Kalra Choudhary
0 Comments