Ujjain/Ujjayini/Avanti/Avantikapuri is a timeless destination that attracts pilgrims with its ancient temples and profound spiritual atmosphere. The holy city in Madhya Pradesh is home to Mahakaleshwar Mandir, one of the twelve Jyotirlings, besides many other temples.
Ujjain Junction is a major station of the Western Railway zone. The nearest airport at Indore is 55 km from the city. In Treta Yug, Shravan Kumar carried his parents to pilgrimage in bamboo baskets; in Kalyug, our progeny planned a car trip. Before the sun dawned, we were on the National Highway. From there we turned onto NH 48, NE 4, NH 552 G and to Agar-Ujjain-Jhalawar Road, dotted with giant windmills. Approximately 880 km travelled in 14 hours. We checked into our guest house, freshened up and set out.
“Where the sound of Om echoes, and time itself bows, stands the eternal Mahakaleshwar.” According to the Shiva Purana, when the people of Ujjain were tormented by the demon Dushan, they prayed to God Shiva for protection. He appeared as a radiant Jyoti (divine light), destroyed the demon and stayed in the form of the Jyotirlinga. Hence, at Shri Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, Mahadev is worshipped as ‘Mahakaal’, King of Time, the one who rules over life, death and the universe itself. The energy of the temple, the echo of the mantras and the powerful presence of Mahakal offer devotees a sense of protection, peace and deep spiritual connection. It is the only Shivaling in the world where the sacred Bhasma Aarti is performed every day, early morning. Advance online booking is available for various aartis.
Shri Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga
A surge of devotees, chanting ‘Har Har Mahadev ’, enter the sanctum from different gates and bow down to the Divine. The exit leads to the grand corridor featuring pillars, statues and murals leading to Rudra Sagar Lake. Massive screens offer live darshans throughout the premises. We sat in a trance and soaked in the divine atmosphere.
Appetising aroma wafts around; the temple street has cart upon cart selling satvik food: daal bafla, poha, paani patasi, jalebi, rabri kulfi, hot kesar milk, paan, bhang thandai and more. The native cuisine is light and digests well as one walks a lot. Remember to buy a Prasad box from the temple outlet to carry home.
The next morning, we engaged an e-rickshaw and set out. Our first stop was at Kaal Bhairav Temple, the city’s guardian deity. The temple is associated with tantra culture/ black magic. It is believed that wishes whispered in Nandi’s ear are conveyed to God Shiv.
Kaal Bhairav Temple
Next, we paid obeisance at Chintamani Ganesh Mandir, an ancient temple of Lord Ganesh known to free the human mind from anxiety and worry. Next on the itinerary was Mangalnath Mandir, the birth site of planet Mangal. A large number of devotees perform Mangal Shanti Paath. Next was Siddhipeeth Gadkalika Mandir, where poet Kalidas worshipped the Goddess to attain knowledge.
Sandipani Ashram is the sacred site where Guru Sandipani taught God Krishna, Balram and Sudama. Ancient relics and spots stand as testimony to our glorious history. Devotees are offered rudraksh as prasad. At Rinmukteshwar Mahadev Mandir, we offered prayers to liberate us from various debts of this life. Barefoot, we hopped throughout the day, braving the scorching sun and drinking plenty of liquids.
By evening, we were at Ram Ghaat on the banks of the sacred Shipra River. As the sun sets, an enchanting and deeply spiritual ritual unfolds: the rhythmic chant of mantra, blowing of conches, tinkling bells, robust beat of drums and dumroo.
Shipra Aarti
The reverence of rivers in Hindu culture is a mesmerising devotional experience. Thousands of lamps flicker on the tranquil river, bringing inner peace. Immediately, devotees move to Harsidhi Mata Mandir. One of the 52 Shaktipeeths, it is believed that Goddess Sati’s elbow fell at this place. King Vikramaditya installed tall pillars in the temple, and 1111 lamps are lit on them for evening prayers. It is a spectacular experience.
Ujjain visit was a profound spiritual experience that connects to centuries of tradition, devotion and immortal omnipresent Mahadev. Time to go home, absorb the aura, imbibe the changes and then wait for the next call.
Suruchi Kalra Choudhary
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