ALSphere Foundation
Lucknow, a multicultural city in Uttar Pradesh, is steeped in historical legacy, religious heritage, and colonial upheaval and is renowned for the extravagant lifestyle and patronage of the Nawabs. The city is approachable via rail, road and air.
On a sunny winter morning, we set out in our car. From the National Highway, we shifted to the Eastern Peripheral Expressway which later connected us to the Agra-Lucknow Expressway. Google Maps helps you effortlessly manoeuvre the journey. While navigating through the city towards our rest house, we moved through aesthetically illuminated, breathtakingly majestic monuments. It was a grand welcome.
The city has an impressive list of must-visit places. Our day tour included the Bada Imam Bada, a quick round of Hazrat Ganj, Hussainabadi Clock Tower, Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Park, Rumi Darwaza, the Chota Imam Bada and Tille ki Masjid. As we moved across an old bridge, our local escort informed us that the Pakistan part depicted in the movie ‘Gadar’ was shot here. As dusk fell, so many bulbs flashed, basking the city of Nawabs in glorious golden.
The high point of the visit was the traditional Awadhi dastarkhawan: Sheermaal, warqi paratha and Tundey ke Kabab; Boti Kebab, Afgani Murg, Chicken Barra, Nihari at Karim’s; Mutton Mutki and Roomali Roti at the Royals; Shareef Dahi Batasha, Natkhat Paani Batasha, Palak Chaat and Kulfi Falooda at the Chaat King; ‘daulat ki chaat’, Ram Assrey’s Malai Gilori and the famous paan. The city is a foodie’s paradise. The flavours are so distinct and subtle, and leave a lingering taste, a sheer gastronomic delight.
Shopping is a natural corollary of a visit. In search of the iconic authentic chikan kari, we jostled our way through the narrow lanes of Akbari Chowk and Aminabad. There were so many exquisite things to buy at such reasonable prices: suits, sarees, kurtas. We stepped into Izharson Itr, and it was like transporting back into the glorious past. On a tester, he would present a sample with such ‘nafasat’ and recite an Urdu couplet in praise. A jar of coffee beans was offered to clear our nostrils. Each fragrance was so distinct and lingering.
The area retains the old-world charm. Tales of the refined and lavish hospitality of the Nawabs are narrated with much passion even now. Lucknow is also known for its courtesans. The glory of Tawaifs and their kothas lingers in the congested bazaars. The polished, refined and sophisticated way of speaking of the people is outstanding. Lucknow is certainly a city of nazakat and nafasat.
The majestic Gomti River meanders through the city dividing the city geographically. The city may also be divided into the old Lucknow and the new Lucknow. The new part has big malls, housing complexes, MNCs and a massive infrastructure. The old Lucknow is a living testament of the Ganga-Jamuni Tehzeeb (syncretic Hindu Muslim culture) and the enduring legacy of our rich heritage.
This trip will be cherished for the phenomenal people we met and the delectable food we feasted on.
Suruchi Kalra Choudhary
